Buon Natale and Other Favorites

I loved the holiday season in Italy because it felt much longer and more magical than the United States commercial spectacle. On December 8th the Immaculate Conception of Mary started the Christmas decorating season with nativity scenes and Christmas market opening. Markedly different then the United States putting up Christmas items practically during Halloween. This day is when our school would start decorating as well and planning for the many Napolitano Christmas events we would participate in. Each year we would visit the Via San Gregorio Armeno full of Christmas ornaments and nativity scenes, each one a unique handmade piece of art. In Naples, the scenes could be almost any backdrop with outlandish and out of the norm figurines. Figurines ranged from the traditional Pulcinella, a symbol of southern rebellion, to Madonna (not La Madonna), a symbol of 80s female rebellion. Walking along the alleyways I was always mesmerized by the little nativity sets for sale and of course, we would always make a visit to the grand nativity scenes set up in various piazze. In class, we would attempt to practice our numbers with Miss Francesca over a game of Tombola and eat panettone and torrone. The entire class vying for the le gambe delle donne, or extra lucky number 77. The number of gift bringers in Italy depends on the region and varies from Saint Lucia, Saint Nicholas, Babbo Natale, and La Bufana.

Something very important during the holidays in Italy is giving to those who are alone or less fortunate for Christmas. Our class would put together individual Christmas baskets for the government-run elderly home in central Naples. My mother, who is very artistic, would help me make the elaborate basket with socks, lotions, candies, chocolates, and small Christmas figurines. We were taught traditional Christmas songs in Italian and would sing to the elderly patrons as a group and then afterward travel to their individual rooms to present them with the gift. In true Italian fashion the woman that I gave my basket to cried tears of joy and kissed my cheeks. I must admit I was sort of frightened of this at the time because I hadn’t yet developed the tender heart of old age, but today it is one of my most endearing memories.

Christmas Eve is a much bigger deal in Italy. Italians generally exchange gifts on Christmas Eve instead of Christmas morning. My parents would let my sister and I go spend part of Christmas Eve with Angela’s family so we could eat and exchange gifts. Angela’s family always had a large fish spread. I absolutely loved the grilled calamari and the seafood pasta. Napoli has the most delicate sweet-flavored baby clams I have ever tried. I always crave them when I go back.

My favorite part was the scandalous treat her parents always let us have—babà—a decadent rum-infused cake. Afterward, Angela’s mom would send us home with some slices of tiramisu for my parents. On Christmas morning we would open our presents at home and Italians generally relaxed with their families.

New Year’s Eve came quickly after Christmas and the festivities continued as families and friends got together to celebrate parties with fireworks. The fireworks are legendary on a Napolitano New Year, but one must be careful walking the streets at the stroke of midnight or they may get pelted by an old plate. In Napoli, the residents literally throw out the old to allow for the new in the new year. This is also a way to ward against bad luck and evil spirits. The noise combination of fireworks and crashing plates and pans frightens the evil away. There are many traditions for luck in the upcoming new year. One needed to prepare the right dishes for bringing luck and pick out the right red undergarments, and you may have to tip the local traveling musicians who come to play at your door.

One tradition I loved while in Italy was that Christmas kept going long after Christmas morning and New Year’s Day. Our school always celebrated La Bufana Day, or the Day of Epiphany, by placing a stocking out for the tardy Christmas witch to leave us candy in if we were good or coal if we were naughty. This witch was most certainly Italian because she was a bit late to bringing baby Jesus his gift and now gives gifts to every child in search of the baby Jesus. You can’t blame her though; Italian time is more of a fluid suggested time range. Due to my puritan upbringing, I was fascinated by the idea of a good Christmas witch, my mother was not entirely thrilled by it, but I loved the ties to the old pagan history. It is one of my favorite traditions that I continue with my nieces and nephews and feels like a special thing just between us.